Friday, 2 March 2007

Hippos and lillies


If you right click on the map and ask it to open in a new window, you will be able to see the map in much more detail.

I have included this map of Botswana but it is not really large enough to be able to pick up the detail that you need. GABORONE is down in the South east of the Country, Francistown to the east of the area that looks like lakes about half way up the country, Kasane is right up on the Northern border near to where the four countries of Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Namibia meet, and Maun is just on the edge of the other 'watery' area in the west centre area of the country. Now you have some idea of where I am talking about I will continue with my story.
Settling down to the routine at Kasane was easy. Those who know me, know that I do not require much sleep. What a happy situation that is, because sleep in the heat and humidity was very fitful. The fan was going full belt over my bed night and day - but all it did was move the air around. The Mosquito net was indispensable, and even then I managed to get bitten frequently. (Yes, I have heard every variation on being sweet that there is to hear). I covered myself head to toe in insect repellent of every variety, then gave myself my customary squirt of my favourite perfume to make me feel human. All it did was attract more mosquitoes. I am sure that the packages say repellent, when in fact it is a spelling mistake, and should read 'attractant'.

At breakfast and dinner there would be lighted Mozzy coils under the tables, in an attempt to prevent legs and ankles being bitten. I would sit right next to one of these, and STILL manage to get bitten. By the end of my stay I had more spots than any leopard, and had to keep wearing long sleeved tops - they could still bite through those, but at least others could not see just how dreadful my arms looked.

More time was spent in the kitchen and so many times the only sounds emanating from there was the sound of gales of laughter, as we made all sorts of treats for the guests and staff. The staff thoroughly enjoyed these times, because they were rarely allowed to enjoy the things they were cooking for others. I tried to ensure that they got their fair share of everything, so that when they come to cook things without my help, they know what the recipes are supposed to taste like. Since I was buying most of the ingredients myself, I felt that they were not costing the Lodge anything, and therefore they were able to acquire a taste for scones and jam and cream, shortbread (both plain and orange), pavlova with fresh paw paw or mangoes, etc. to name but a few.

The evening river cruises were wonderful. We would leave the Lodge at about 4pm, and since night falls by 6 or 6.30pm, we were usually lucky enough to see the animals at their best.
We had, at this time, 3 young American medical students staying. They were on an exchange with the Princess Marina Hospital in Gaborone and were taking the opportunity to see the Chobe, and also go to Victoria Falls. That first river cruise with them was unforgettable. At the sight of the first Hippo, they went into overdrive! Each of the girls must have taken at least 50 photos of that first Hippo.
The fact that we went on to see at least 60 more meant that they were having to delete photos in order to cram more onto their memory cards! The Hippo causes more deaths in Africa than any other animal, and when you see their enormous bulk rising out of the water beside the boat you are very pleased that they have not surfaced under the boat. However, this is a very rare occurrence, as they do not like the sound of the outboard motors, so one is relatively safe from that sort of encounter. However, should you get between a mother and her baby, a different, far more dangerous scenario can unfold. We managed to avoid doing this, but at one stage a Hippo decided to chase the boat, and our guide had to accelerate at one holy lick to get away from her.

The darter birds get their name from the fact that they use their beaks like spears, and are part of the Cormorant family, and sit on any suitable branch to both watch the water for signs of food and also to dry out their wings.

Surprising to me were the large areas of water lillies - and we managed to get the boat well in amongst them to get a close look at their lovely blooms.
I went on many river cruises, each one completely different to the last. However, Gabi and Phil loved to go clay pigeon shooting, and asked if I would like to go with them to a shoot in Maun. Why do people ask such silly questions? Did it for a nano-second look as if I would refuse? Never!

Maun is a fair drive from Kasane in the rainy season. No taking any short cuts through the dirt roads as we only had a couple of nights, and it can take a day to go that way in case the vehicle gets bogged down in the mud. No, we would go the tarred road way, just a short hop of around 600 miles.

Although I snapped this guy the day before we set off, I have included him because he is a good illustration of why you never drive at night. This was mid afternoon, but with a rather hefty storm in the offing, so imagine what it would be like at night. Did you spot the elephant? No sidelights on him - or even reflectors.



Finally we left for the journey to Maun. This is a town in the back of beyond, but very much a tourist town, situated as it is on the Okavango Delta. Every other place in town offers flights over the Delta or boat trips on it. Now don't get the idea that it is near the sea, as the word Delta would indicate. This is the only Delta that ends up in a desert - Botswana is landlocked of course.




This chap was enjoying himself in the vegetation that had covered the land very quickly - there had been not a blade of grass only 4 months before.

We stopped for a cup of coffee at the edge of the Mkadgikadgi Pans, a famous wildlife area that is made up of soda ash, and which rarely gets any water on it. Hence the reason for taking a photo to show that there was indeed water in 2006.

Rainbows always fascinate us, and this double one was so perfect an arc that I had to take a video of it in order to capture it in its full glory. As you can see, it was a double one and we just stood and marvelled at it.


It was lovely to be going to a town I had only heard of - but I had no idea where we would be staying.... but then, that is where my sense of adventure never lets me down.

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