My first orphanage experience

This little girl is one of the most beautiful children I have ever seen - quite stunningly lovely.

I had tried to find out where the orphanage my friend had told me about was, but all I could find out was that it was at Mahalpye., about 400km north of Gaborone. It had been impossible to search for it as I travelled south with Phil and Gabi, so I resolved to see if I could find out more about it once they had left for home after a few days. I got the telephone number to the Bishop's Office at the Cathedral in Gaborone, and after a few different people trying to help me and passing my call from one to another, I finally got to speak to the office of the National President of the Mother's Union. It was arranged that I would go there the following day to meet Agnes. Of course, sensible me had not actually asked where her office was physically situated, and she had just said she would meet me at the Cathedral. At the appointed time I entered the Cathedral, having managed to park my car in a very crowded car park. This was my first surprise. The Cathedral was packed to the door. People ushered me toward a seat, but I managed to escape, as it was obvious that some sort of service was about to begin. There were a couple of young ladies standing at the back wearing badges, so I tiptoed to them, and in a low whisper asked what was about to happen (no service had as then started). Oh, it is a funeral memorial service for a well known young person who killed himself last week, they told me. Very matter of fact and no trace of emotion. Quickly I asked where the MU office was situated. They directed me out of the Cathedral, then a trek around the back to a series of low concrete block buildings, painted white with the MU blue paint on the woodwork.

Right - Agnes, Centre - Julia Left - the Lady in charge at the Orphanage. This was taken at the orphanage but inside the church.

Relieved, I entered to be greeted by the friendliest lady I think I have ever had the good fortune to meet in such circumstances. I had been so acutely embarrassed to find myself leaving just as a funeral was about to begin - and I was not the only white person there, so it seemed even more strange, I am sure. I was so pleased to meet Julia. We chatted about her work, and she kept apologising for Agnes, the President, not having been there to meet me. After about an hour Agnes arrived in a cloud of dust and squealing brakes. She had just returned from Mahalapye after one of her many visits to make sure everything there was running smoothly.

This little one was upset because he couldn't keep my camera!

She had decided that she would like to show me around some of her projects around Gaborone, so it was into the mini-bus with Julia at the wheel, Agnes beside her and me in the back. I think I have mentioned before the dreadful driving in that city. I am sure the first thing prospective drivers learn is to close their eyes and get their foot as hard down on the accelerator as possible. She was, as I said, a really friendly lady. However, it is a little un-nerving to have a conversation with the driver who insists on turning round to talk to you whilst propelling the vehicle at break-neck speeds through city traffic. At one memorable stage, she was actually asking me what I thought of the standard of driving in Botswana, and she had not looked at the road for a good 2 minutes at the time. It is very difficult to be polite when sheer terror is overtaking you.

More of the lovely children who all look very healthy and cared for, thanks to the wonderful work at St. Peters.

The laddie with the big grin on the left rejoices in the name of Prince and what a character he is.

We got to a triangular building which had high concrete fencing around it, and it transpired that this was St Peter's Church, Mogoditshane. (Strange coincidence - Vic also lives in Mogoditshane but didn't know this place existed - second thought, not so strange really as church and Vic don't really see eye to eye!)

The Children, like children the world over, love painting. Except here they only had green and yellow paint.

I was taken to the Rectory and met the most charismatic Rector I think I have ever had the good fortune to be introduced to. Andrew had trained at Mirfield, Huddersfield, so he immediately enjoyed hearing my Yorkshire accent.

With some of the most enthusiastic volunteers any centre could hope to have - full of love and care for the children.

He and Agnes were talking about the building of the new orphanage, and he mentioned that the £1,000 promised by someone was not now going to materialise, which would severely hold up the dream of getting it built. It was to equip the kitchen and bathrooms. Without those, the rest of the orphanage could not be built. He ended up with just saying that they would just have to keep praying, and that he felt sure the Lord would answer his prayers sooner or later. (None of this conversation was directed at me, and I spent my time quietly chatting to Julia whilst this was going on)
.

More beautiful smiles and more green and yellow paintings.

Now Agnes took me to meet the children. They were picked up each morning, and transported there, fed and looked after all day, and then they would go to wherever they were to spend the night. These little ones have no parents, and it is only the care and attention of the Mother's Union Members that provides them with clothing and food and a nights shelter. They are some of the happiest children who have seen the hardest of lives, and have little hope of any sort of existence without the orphanages. They are just the tip of the iceberg that is the AIDS/HIV legacy in Africa general and Botswana in this case.

They were all gathering round to sing a song to me - talk about emotional!

I spent the most amazing couple of hours there, taking their photographs, which they loved and clamoured to see, and talking with their helpers. These young people have endless patience and thoughout the whole work they do, their faith is a wonderful example. I felt completely out of my depth. These little ones with nothing were so happy just playing and chatting - just like children the world over really. They had never seen a digital camera, and the squeals of delights when they saw their photographs will remain with me always. When I arrived, they were doing some painting. However, they only had Green and Yellow paints, so every photo was a study in green and yellow. I resolved there and then to make sure that I would bring back a rainbow of paints for them, as well as pencils and crayons and everything else I could carry.




I am just going to add their photos, but I cannot add their names - for their own sakes as much as anything else. They certainly provided me with a totally new direction for my life without even realising it.

Smiles, smiles and more smiles - from children who have nothing to smile about compared to children in the UK.

After the emotional visit to orphanage, Julia propelled the mini-bus to a lovely Lodge for a cool drink for us. Agnes still had one more project she wanted to show me. This lady had been in dire need of a home, and the Mother's Union had built her this house. As she was very ill, she had a couple of young people to help her, this young man, and there was a lovely young lady who was busy preparing lunch for her - and who was very camera shy, so I didn't take her photo.
It is a very worthwhile project that they had completed and were justifiably very proud of what they had achieved.

It was impossible for me to spend longer with Agnes (my nerves would not take a lot more of the driving for one thing!) but I hoped to be able to return one day with some paints for the children, as well as lots of other things I could see they desperately needed.

Where the young care for the old and infirm as a matter of choice and pleasure - no relation of this lady, who had none, but just a volunteer helping out with the Mother's Union work.

I had made arrangements on my way north some weeks before, to return to Clifton School and spend longer with Larry and Ian, and this I was able to do the following day. I was SO grateful for Terry's amazing kindness in lending me a car, so, with bag packed once more, I was off on the road up to Francistown again. I do love to get on that road north - and this time I did not have any idea just where it was going to lead me eventually, and I was prepared for anything. I shall tell you about my incredible journey next time.

A few days in Gaborone before going North again.

Arriving back at Vic’s was wonderful. He does a very good impression of being pleased to see us – well I know it is genuine where Phil and Gabi are concerned, but having me back there chattering all the time, must be a strain on someone used to a quiet life!
He had laid in enough food to feed a battalion, so we ate like royalty yet again. Terry came over as well, so we got really stuck into a mountain of steak cooked to perfection by Vic on the Braai. It had been a long and rather tiring day – particularly for Gabi, travelling as she did in the back of the truck. The heat of the day had been pretty intense, and whilst Phil had arranged the canvas in such as way as to let in some flow of air, it must have been most uncomfortable for her.
As I was saying…. Now I was back in Gaborone, and Vic had told me the previous visit about a fence that I really should see. You may recall the one made out of Cable Drum sides that I included a photo of earlier in this saga, and this one is even better in some ways. It surrounds a second hand car spares place, and is quite ingenious.

It is constructed using old Car bonnets - but no doubt, if you needed one of them, for the right price the boss would take it out of his fence. Gives a whole new slant on the word 'Stockade'.


I had received an email from a friend in the north of Scotland telling me about an orphanage that had been opened recently and would I visit it and take some photos. She had no idea where I was staying, or where the place I was to look for was situated. As it happened, it was some 400Km north of Gaborone, but I would do my best to find it – well what is 400 Km when you live 6,500 miles away?

I was again very fortunate – nay I was fantastically lucky! – because Terry once again came to my rescue with the offer of a car to drive. What a blessing that was. I had been to a Garden Centre with Vic and had been absolutely enchanted by it, so now I had to find it again on my own. Normally, in Europe and the UK, I have no problem whatsoever orientating myself. All that skill desserts me in Africa. I think I said once before, that when you grow up in the Northern hemisphere you KNOW that the sun rises in the east, goes to the south at midday, and sets in the west. Easy peasy! Just look where the shadow is and you know where you are. WRONG in Africa! The sun in the North at midday is confusing to say the least. Add to this the fact that I had so far not seen any single map of Gaborone, so didn’t even know the direction from the City centre where Vic lives and you have a recipe for instantly getting lost. Well, sorry folks, I didn’t get lost. I DID visit all sorts of places unexpectedly, and certainly not on any tourist trail. I just call it the scenic route!

The garden Centre was wonderful, and these are some of the photos I took there, From the fully grown trees, to the gravels and stones used on gardens, everything was so different to a UK garden centre. Except of course, for the roses.

The gravels were something out of this world – as one who has worked with semi-precious stones I found it fascinating to see them in their natural state, ready to just cover a garden!

This red gravel is Diamond gravel

Blue Jaspers

 

and Tiger's eye (strange that it comes from Africa, where the Tigers don't live!)

Seeing so many roses in bloom in February also was unknown for me

The ever present Zebra Butterflies and I did manage to get a close up of this one

Of course, as I have told you before, they never let their wings stop fluttering, so it was difficult to photograph, but you can at least see it more clearly than others I have taken.

This double Bougainvillea was stunning.

And the perfume from this stephanotis was just overpoweringly beautiful

I had arranged to go to Vic’s office to access my email one day, and yes, he had taken me there a couple of days before. Could I find it? Well, suffice it to say that instead of the 10 or 12Km it is to his office, I actually did about 35. Here is Sir at his desk, and you can see from the look on his face that he is rather amused that I had taken so long to find his office!

My dear friend Vic

I had also arranged to meet up with Phil and Gabi at a shopping centre for lunch. ‘Oh, yes, I know where Riverwalk is.’ had been my proud boast! Well, I had been there a couple of times with Terry last October. Mmmm. I had not taken the notice I thought I had taken of the route, had I? When you pass the same spot for the 4th time, you get a little concerned. I had to stop and phone Gabi a couple of times, but at the 5th attempt I did arrive. Too late for lunch, but in time to enjoy a long cold drink.

I spent a very happy half hour in the computer shop there – bought a set of speakers for my MP3 player for a mere £35 instead of the £70+ they would have cost here. How I was wishing I had unlimited shipping facilities. The chocolate fountain would certainly have been in my luggage if I could have carried it. Not for my own use, you understand, but so I could raise money with it for my charities. For those of you who have not seen a chocolate fountain it is a machine which melts chocolate then it flows over 3 different sized bowls and you just dip fruit or marshmallows into the melted chocolate to eat them chocolate coated! Mmm, wicked or what!!! (This was in February 2006, before they came to the UK other than commercial ones and a few very specialist shops may have had them).

The week I was back in Gaborone was wonderful, and I spent a whole day with the National President of the Mother’s Union visiting their orphanage in Gaborone. I shall tell you all about that next time…..

Back south before another adventure

Dawn on my last morning at Garden Lodge on the Chobe River (http://www.thegardenlodge.com/)

Leaving The Garden House and its wonderful staff was a huge wrench. I had been welcomed like a member of Gabi's family, and the only saving grace in leaving, was that the three of us were travelling together. This in itself was a testament to friendship. They do not have a car or vehicle with 4 seats in the cab. No, it had been a lot of work for Phil to adapt one of their vehicles to take all the luggage - and we had lots! - and then make room for a mattress in the back. Gabi took up her position laying on the mattress, whilst Phil drove and I sat like the Queen Mother in splendid comfort in the cab! I felt pretty awful about Gabi going all those miles in the back, but she would not hear of my changing places with her. Phil did, however, change with her, and again, Gabi and I chattered like two monkeys for mile upon mile.

This was my last (perhaps) sight of the entrance to Garden Lodge with its Setswana sign.

Talking to Phil is always a delight, too. He is such an intelligent, knowledgeable man, and our conversations were so interesting that the miles simply flew by. His stories of his time in the Rhodesian Police, and the problems that country under its present Government has to bear were many. I had not realised just how tribal some of the atrocities committed are. The Matabele are a very peaceable tribe who had been in positions of authority for many years, but the Shona, the tribe of the present Leader, have killed thousands of the Matabele in what is purely and simply a score settling exercise. It is to my eternal shame that I knew so little of the stories of our past colony. More of this situation would be corrected when I got further into my holiday.

We stopped at the usual vet fences, with their disinfectant troughs, and this photo I took at one of them. The vehicle on the left, with the canvas covered back, is the one we were travelling in. I don't think another sheet of tissue paper could have been forced into it we were carrying so much. There was the launcher for the Clay pigeons, there were boxes of clays and ammunition, a lot of luggage being delivered to Phil's son who had recently returned to South Africa from England where he had been educated. A very large mobile Freezer, which was wonderful, keeping our food and drinks icy cold - something of a real luxury on such a hot journey. Not to mention our own luggage - well, mine any way, because I had all my luggage with me this time, as opposed to the overnight case I had used on our 4 day trip to Maun - plus various parcels etc.

We pulled off the road for a coffee and a sandwich, and looking around, as I tend to do, I noticed this caterpillar. Neither Gabi nor Phil had ever seen one like it, so if anyone can tell me what it turns into, please do. It was about 4 inches long, and the hairs looked like spikes.

I had been very wary about getting out of the vehicle into the long grass, because I imagined snakes would be lurking everywhere. Fortunately I never saw a live one, although we did see one or two dead ones on the road.
You may recall me talking about the road becoming an airstrip in at least 3 sections of the route from Kasane down to Francistown. This is one of them. As you can see from the volume of traffic, it is not exactly going to cause huge disruption if one did have to land. Apparently, when I asked our pilot friends, they are only used in emergency and were really put there for military use during the Zimbabwean (Rhodesian) UDI time. Happily, nothing required our bit of road when we were travelling along it. Mind you, it would be one thing to buzz a vehicle to get out of the way, but imagine if an elephant were crossing! Ooops! A bit more of an obstacle than most pilots would imagine having to contend with.

The marks on the sky are actually on the windscreen, before you try enlarging the photo to find out the species of red bird!

We were travelling happily along when suddenly Phil said, -' Look - Ostrich!' Well by the time I got the camera switched on, this was all I managed to get!

It does, however, show the amount of greenery that had carpeted the land - now lush and even more green than when I had driven up it some 2½ weeks before.

We were heading for Francistown, and these next two photos I took to show the contrast. The first one I had taken on my way south with Vic and Terry in October, and the other on this journey south
.

and now

Again, apologies for the marks on the windscreen, but I am sure you get the effect. Hard to believe it is even the same country, isn't it?

This is a very quick snap I took of the swallows that had left our shores last Autumn, and will return this coming summer. They were swooping and diving all around us, but since they fly so very quickly, it was almost impossible to get a photo of them, which is why I just got these few resting on the power lines. It is strange how the sight of swallows gladden the heart, isn't it? Rather like the daffodils in spring.

We stayed overnight again at Gelli and Butch's house, and all the animals were there to make sure they were noticed. They are not allowed into the kitchen, but this was a very tempting moment for them.

Gabi called me out to one of the sheds where spare Freezers are kept. She wanted me to see THIS! It is a King Cricket and I was horrified by its size. Needless to say, I did not hang around long enough to look too closely - a click of the shutter and I was off!

The following morning, we went to Serowe to get the vehicle serviced. The family who own the garage were extraordinarily kind to us. They loaned Phil and Gabi a double cab vehicle, and off we went to the Khama Rhino Sanctuary. I had not known we were going there, and to my horror my batteries were almost flat for my cameras. Whilst I do have car battery chargers, they were left in the vehicle being serviced, so I just had to be content with a couple of photos. The first thing we saw was this beautiful wild Nerine lily. Of course, at this point I didn't realise just how flat my camera battery was, so I clicked away!

and then we got to the edge of the Pan (the name, as you have no doubt realised, for a lake or body of water).

There were Wildebeest, Impala, Zebra all drinking and it was magic. Trouble was, we were a long way away, and trying to zoom in used up the last of my power in the battery. You will have to be patient with me and forgive the tiny figures of animals.

All the visit went from one wonder to another - we rounded a bend, and suddenly there was a huge Rhino about 30 metres from the car. What heartbreak! No camera in action!! Of course, it meant that I just wanted to re-visit the Sanctuary, but heaven knew when, indeed, if ever, I could do that!

Back to Serowe, we had been invited for lunch at the friends house. What an experience of pure hospitality and friendship that was. One of the most memorable times of my stay, we went to the most wonderful house imaginable - and no camera!!! What a shame!

The family is one of the oldest in Botswana, and their story is the stuff of legend. The great-grandfather had gone out at a trader at the end of the 19th Century, and was doing very nicely at it. The thing he lacked was a wife, and there were few white women of eligible age who were single. During his travels he had met up with an Irish family who had taken in an orphan girl of about 14 years. He was 30+ at the time. Doing what he knew best, which was trading cattle, and there had been a disease which had wiped out a lot of the stock, he did what came as second nature to him. He offered some stock in exchange for the girl. Frowned on, no doubt, by later generations, all was agreed. They were married and lived a very long and loving life, producing a large family, one of whom I was delighted to meet. She is the mother of the present garage owner. She and her husband had started the business back in about 1942, and had also had various other sidelines, like a cafe etc. Their son now runs the business, and in turn his children are also taking over. They have been politicians but their main concern is the welfare of their people, and the Rhino Sanctuary. They are, as I said, one of the most well known, and highly respected families in the country, and for me it was an enormous honour to have been invited to their home.

Phil and Gavin talked at length about the pre-colonial history of Rhodesia, and the lack of any written history, but of course, back then it was only an oral tradition, and therefore extremely difficult to research. I was to find later someone whom Phil would be able to consult on his quest. Talk about doors opening and meeting extraordinary people most unexpectedly. I can never believe how it seems to happen to me. Perhaps it is something to do with the fact that I love people and am curious about them and their stories. (Or is it just plain old Yorkshire nosiness?)

Once the car was ready, it was time to head down the road to Gaborone, and to inflict ourselves on Vic, yet again. He is an excellent host - and he and Phil go back a long way, so it is always good to see them, as Vic would say 'talking shit!' (meaning, rubbish of course!). .
They have it down to a fine art, and have always got a one liner to come back at anyone with.
Vic's garden had grown a lot on the time I had been enjoying myself at Garden Lodge, and this photo I took from under the thatch covering the Jacuzzi - and no, I wasn't IN the jacuzzi at the time!

Now I had a couple of days to spend with Vic - laughing non-stop as usual. Gabi and Phil took me to a garden Centre, the likes of which I had never seen before, with the tropical plants in profusion. Next time I will show you a few of the photographs I took there. However, I now had received an email from a friend in the north of Scotland. She told me she had read of an orphanange and wondered if I would pop in and take a look at it. Pop in? It was 300 miles north of Gaborone, but since I was going to drive back up to Francistown to re-visit the many friends I had made there, I would try to find it. It was to be a very memorable trip in many ways.

A pride of Lions and a sunset - perfection!

A Game cruise on the Chobe can last until it is almost dark, tearing oneself away from the excitement in order to get back to the Lodge before it is too dangerous to get there. The sun drops suddenly from the sky over Africa. Not the long twilight hours we have here in the North of the UK - and indeed, I do sometimes like to go to the north coast of Scotland near the summer equinox in order to experience the midnight sun - well if not exactly sun, at least be able to film at midnight without the aid of lights.

One of the many river cruises was particularly memorable for me. We had got close to the Chobe Game Lodge - this is one of the few Lodges actually within the National Game Reserve, and is where (incidentally) Richard Burton re-married Elizabeth Taylor. We had noticed a knot of game vehicles obviously watching something intently. Then, to our dismay, we saw the object of their attention.
It was a pride of 7 lions. Some 2 km distant from us when we first spotted them, Kelvin turned the boat so that we could follow the line they were taking. Across the high bank of the river, we could see the golden heads, then the black tips of their tails.

Closer and closer the approached, but quite slowly at first, whilst we watched. Video camera whirring (yes, well, not quite like a cine camera, but you know what I mean)! Occasionally I would pick up the stills camera in the hope of capturing the sight for you.

We were just 5 people on the boat - myself, Kelvin and 3 guests. As ever, I was at the very bow of the boat, but this time I scarcely dare breath. Closer and closer they came. All the time, we were wondering if they would veer away from the waters edge and we would lose sight of them. The leader wore an electronic collar - essential for the management of the reserve, since only last year there was Anthrax in the Reserve, and at least one pride had been wiped out. Now it is imperative that a watchful eye is kept on the health of the remaining prides.

FINALLY we were rewarded by this wonderful sight. I have lightened this photo so that you can see them more clearly, as the original is rather dark.

It had been an unforgettable experience, and one that I felt privileged to have witnessed. On the same cruise we also came across these elephants playing games. Typical teenagers, pushing and shoving each other trying to each outdo the other in the test of strength.

They played like this for a while, but eventually decided to go off in search of more adventures.
Further along we came across this delightful scene of an elephant family - but the baboons were really bugging them, and the large elephant on the left was warning them to keep away. Eventually he got very cross with them, and was trumpeting at them to clear off. Of course they just held their ground, and the elephants went away instead!
I bet there was a fair amount of muttering under his breath by the Bull on the left!

As we were watching this scene, I was again sitting right in the bows of the boat, and looking to my right, was this baby crocodile. I was more than happy when Kelvin moved the boat, because if there is a baby, so also there must be a mother nearby, because as I have said before, the young are fed by the parents for the first 7 years

The evening was now getting rather humid, and there was quite a storm brewing over to the Namibian side. In fact, it was already happening over that side of the river, and was quite spectacular from where we were sitting.

However, before we got very far, I noticed we were being observed quite closely. This old chap was taking in the scene, sitting in the comfort of his tree.

Time was coming though that we really just had to be moving back towards the Lodge, and this was one of those lovely nights, despite the gathering storm, that we were rewarded with a lovely sunset.

It took a very short while to go from this

through this

And with this magic moment thrown in

and the golden glow of the sunset being shown on the eastern flank

and southern, or Botswanan, bank

all the way to this glorious sight in the matter of about 10 minutes

and finally this moments before darkness decended completely.

Leaving me another game drive to do the following day... and all this time, Phil was adapting the Toyota so that he or Gabi could travel in the back of it, along with a mountain of things they were taking south for their son, as in a couple of days, we would be making that 1000 Km journey back to Gaborone, via, of course, friends in Francistown again.