Hippos and Happy times

Waking up under the Mozzy net, and disentangling myself from it, I was hot but after a lovely cooling shower, I looked out of my riverside Rondavel, and the sight that greeted me was magical. There, on the carefully manicured grass (kept watered so it was actually green) was a playful family of mongoose, all chattering away and jumping on each other and generally having a lovely time. There were a few warthogs chomping and with faces that only a mother could love, it was highly amusing to see them run - up go their tails, like little aerials, and the take off at great speed. They eat with their front legs folded under them, to give the effect of kneeling down. A monitor lizard slithered down the little gully into the river beside my Rondavel, then I looked across the lawn, and there were Vic and Terry having a laugh and a coffee, waiting for me to join them to go for breakfast. Those two are up at 5 each morning, and it was now 8am, so I got accused of being an idle loafer for not emerging until so late. I learned very quickly during my stay why they get up so early. The heat. By 9am it was already a stifling 35 degrees C, and we were right beside the river, to the humidity was also much higher than it had been back 1000 Kms south in Gaborone. It was going to take a while to adjust, but I would just have to persevere with it. After a wonderful breakfast, it was time to go and have a look at Kasane, and the Chobe Forest. This is not part of the National game Reserve, and very few people actually go into it, as the vast majority of people are only up at Kasane for 2 nights as part of a more extensive safari holiday, and their time is taken up with a game drive into the Game Reserve, and an evening cruise on the Chobe River. No time left over for anything else if they are only staying for such a short time. I was lucky enough to be staying 4 nights, and with friends who happen to own a hotel, so I got taken to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe as well as cruises every evening, and drives into both the Reserve and the forest.

Victoria Falls was everything I hoped it would be. Vic had told me that I must make sure that I have a meal in the Victoria Falls Hotel, one of the most famous hotels in the whole of Africa, and actually the equivalent of Raffles in Singapore, or any other legendary hotel you care to mention.

The sight of Livingstone's statue at Victoria Falls, with the roar of the Falls in the background, then the breathtaking first view of them really made me a little sad that I was viewing it alone, as everyone else seemed to be in parties or couples. Still only just over a year since I was widowed, it was indeed rather a poignant moment, and the spray falling on my face from the falls masked the tears that also were wetting my face.

From the Falls we went to see the Famous Boabab tree which is immense. The Boabab's are one of the most important trees in Africa, and are known as the Supermarket of the Bush. This is because man can hide in them, there will be water somewhere nearby (even if it is necessary to dig to find it), its branches will shade the hottest traveller, and it is also the source of Cream of Tartar. It looks as though it is growing upside down, so is very distinctive.

I asked to be taken to the Victoria Falls Hotel, and what a great piece of advice it had been to go there for a meal. I had a memorable meal, sitting on the terrace overlooking the Bridge over the Zambezi that links Zambia and Zimbabwe, with a milestone at the base of the flagstaff that reads Capetown 1,647 Miles, Cairo 5,165 Miles. It put into context just how far I was away from home. Throughout my meal, I kept wondering how much it was going to cost me, then immediately would replace that thought with another of not caring how much, as this was an experience I may never have again. Imagine my surprise when I got the bill. I had been told that I could pay for anything in Zimbabwe in Sterling or Botswana Pula. I offered to pay in £s. The head waiter leaned very close to me and said that whilst of course I could, I would received my change in Zim Dollars (wink wink). The amount on the bill was 3,450,000 Zim $ and I really had no idea what the exchange rate was. I had asked many times, and always received very vague replies. I then asked if I could pay in Pula, and this was accepted happily. I had lots of different denomination Pula notes, so was able to pay the exact amount. Image if you can, my utter astonishment when that 3.45 Million Z$ turned out to be the princely sum of £9 - for a two course meal and a drink! At a future visit to Zimbabwe I was to learn a lot more about the devastating effects of inflation on that country. I will save it for a future chapter, but I feel sure the world should really know what is happening there.

Returning to Kasane, I had made friends with a German couple who were also staying at The Garden Lodge. Contrary to popular opinion, this pair had the most wonderful sense of humour, and we had been swapping jokes and stories on the 80 Km drive back from the Falls. By the time we arrived back, in time for dinner, and the Boys had joined us, we began a great party.

A group of ladies came back from eating somewhere else in the village, and we invited them to join us for drinks. The group came from Francistown, and sure enough, Vic knew at least one of the ladies husband. In fact, he had been with him on his first day in Botswana. During the course of the party, and finding out that these ladies all belonged to a Book Club, he opened his big mouth, and told them that I am a writer. I quickly changed the subject, asking about Book Clubs. It turned out that since books are very expensive in Botswana, groups of a dozen ladies get together and form a club. Each member buys 12 books in one month of the year, and then the others all read those books in turn. At the end of the year it means that they have been able to read 144 books for the cost of 12, and they can discuss what they liked or didn't enjoy - and have food and wine on those book club evenings as well. Sounded like a great idea to me, and they were great fun too.

Phil had come over and whispered in my ear 'Would you like to come and see the hippo in the garden?' I laughed, saying that that was a very different chat up line to any other I had ever heard. He chuckled, then said, 'No, seriously, we have called her Margaret, and she comes up from the river from time to time and she is on the lawn right now' . What a fabulous opportunity it was to see such a huge animal on land. One of the dubious advantages of having a river side property, as they can been very fierce animals - killing more people in Africa than any other animal. I have had to lighten the picture, as it was taken in total darkness.

The ladies were all leaving for home the following day, and the boys and myself were heading back south to Nata Lodge on our way south. It turned out that our new German friends were also heading to Nata, so we were able to continue our fun when we arrived there.

Before leaving, Gabi made me promise to go back up to Kasane as soon as I could. I received the best compliment I have ever had from her, and that is that she felt I was the sister she had always wanted to have - even though I am old enough to be her mum. Before we left, I got a phone call from one of the ladies from the Book Club. Since I would be going passed Francistown on my way south, would I consider stopping off (or being dropped off to be precise!) to spend a few days talking to the school where she taught, as it was International Book Week and to meet a real life author would be wonderful for the children. Receiving reassurance that they would make sure I got back to Gaborone afterwards, I agreed to do it. I did keep wondering what I was doing, but in the end I was sure I could hear a little door creaking open in the back of my mind.

Nata Lodge, and another wonderful luxury bungalow all to myself! Here the room had a raised balcony, that looks out onto the bush so there is the chance of seeing all the birds and animals that happen to wander by.

We were booked onto a drive to the Mkadgikadgi Pans to see the sun set. This is an enormous area of salt pans, which, in the rainy season (if there is any rain!) is home to millions of flamingos. Of course, this was not the rainy season, so we didn't see the flamingos, but the sheer scale of the pans was mind blowing. As far as the eye could see it was flat, cracked, grey earth. The impression it left of just how insignificant we, and our problems, are really does hammer home on such a vast landscape.

We all 5 (us and the Germans) ate together, then moved into the bar, Gernot and Terry got Terry's laptop set up, and we spent a most hilarious evening watching funny video's on it. The staff were laughing at us and were overjoyed when we told them to come and watch with us. No language barriers in the way, just lots of hilarity. The impression the staff had of us was long lasting, as I was to discover some months later.

There appeared to be a bird table right beside where we were seated. Soon, amid much excitement, we realised that this was no ordinary bird table. The Bush babies arrived to eat the chopped up mangoes that were on it. Exquisite little creatures they are, and to see them no more than 6ft away from you is indescribable. I took lots of photos, but in the pitch dark, it was not very successful, so the one I have here has been lightened on the computer just to try to give some idea of how close they were.

The following morning we said goodbye to our new found friends, and set off for Francistown, where I was going to be dumped by the Boys! Where this was going to lead, I was not at all sure. I had not met the couple I would be staying with, or indeed know where I was staying. All I knew was that I was to be dropped off at The Clifton School, and to ask for Larry.